| Poster |
Message |
 Heigo
|
 Plaanid Pontiaciga
Hakkasin siis üksõhtu plaane tegema, et kui kaugele asja aretada. Jõudsin järeldusele, et enamuse ajast viibin siiski autoga maanteedel ja linnas, niiet sellesse autosse jääb hetkel veel SBC  Teadjamad koguaeg räägivad, et enne ehitamist tuleb selgeks teha mis otstarbeks autot ehitama hakatakse. Mina siis hakkangi enamasti igapäevasõitudeks (kuid samas paar korda aastas tahaks 1/4miilil kah käia) ehitama. Mis te arvate mis oleks vaja vahetada, sest praegu on tegemist suhteliselt stock autoga (bensupump on vist vähe karmim). Tahaks teada ka kuhumaani hobujõude on mõttekas ajada, et kütusekulu rahakotti auku ei kulutaks. Võite veel kõike tarka öelda, mida autoga ette võtta. |
| 15.11.2001 at 15:19 |
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jyrki
|
 Plaanid Pontiaciga
Install Edelbrocks Performer RPM kit, get the CR to about 9.5-10.5:1 (with aluminum heads) headers and free flowing exhaust and with a 10" converter you'll have a winner. |
| 15.11.2001 at 15:52 |
|
newton
 Moderator |
Plaanid Pontiaciga
Njaa, nii tore on unistada, mida kõike teeks, kui oleks palju raha. Kui mul oleks stock 350, siis unistaks ma järgmistest asjadest:
Karpa, sisselase ja headerid vt. turu alt oma topicut. Ceramic coated on hää, kui ostad headerid pikema perspektiiviga (mõtleb oma roostes väljalaskele  )
Need jupid on kõik vist keskmiselt 5-6 KEEK tükist?
Nukk kah oluline, Pärtel ütleb sulle täpsed specid, oleneb kaantest, aga miski 220 @ 050 oleks päris vahva, nagu ta vist kuskil mainis. Nukk ise vist odav, aga kui mingid tõukurid ja nookurid ka mängu tulevad, siis vist suht kallis kokku.
Kõige olulisem asi peaks olema kaaned. Kõige odavam upgrade oleks kuskilt (Soomest?) mingid paremad stock kaaned leida, ntx TPI omad. Sealt suur samm edasi oleks GM-i uued Vortec kaaned ja kõige rajum asi vähemalt thirdgen.org'i kohaselt peaks olema AFR alumiiniumkaaned (http://www.airflowresearch.com/chevy_dyno.htm). Hinnad alates USAs u. $1300, ehk Eestisse jõudnuna vist 50+ KEEK.
Tundub, et USAs nähtud võimsusi ja ET'sid ei õnnestu kuidagi Eesti oludes korrata, aga nii peaks ikka kokku piisavalt powerit (400hj?) saama, et pikapeale stock bottom end õhku lasta, ja siis võibki strokerile mõtlema hakata 
Mingi hetk tuleks siis vahepeal mõelda ka teistele süsteemidele, nagu süüde. Ja loomulikult stalli juurde, shift kit abiks ja difrilukk, kui pole.
Selline oleks minu ettekujutus vingest street-Firest, ainult endal enne palju muud teha, kui 350'le ja selle ehitamisele mõelda.
Reaalselt ma arvan, et ostad ajapikku, nii kuis rahakott lubab, kõiki neid asju, va. kaaned, kuna need on nii kallid. Paraku just sealt see kõige suurem power tuleks.
Lisaks on olemas nitro ja ülelaadimine, aga IMO võiks keegi kätte võtta ja ehitada ühe asise vabalthingava karpaga SB, et näidata, et nii saab ka streetable powerit küllaga ja suht odavalt.
Sisse/väljalase igal juhul on suht õige ja mitte üle mõistuse kulukas algus.
Disclaimer: see kõik on kirjutatud inimese poolt, kelle kõige suurem saavutus oma auto modimisel on klaasipesuri töölesaamine. Suur lugupidamine neile, kes reaalselt oma autosid modivad. |
| 15.11.2001 at 16:56 |
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Heigo
|
 Plaanid Pontiaciga
quote:
newton wrote:
Disclaimer: see kõik on kirjutatud inimese poolt, kelle kõige suurem saavutus oma auto modimisel on klaasipesuri töölesaamine. Suur lugupidamine neile, kes reaalselt oma autosid modivad.
...mina polegi oma Fire klaasipesureid tööle saanud
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| 15.11.2001 at 17:24 |
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jyrki
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Plaanid Pontiaciga
A budget approach how I would do it: First assure that the short block is in decent condition, good oil pressure and cylinder pressure and if possible perform a leak down test. If the short block is OK, youll get good power with pretty basic things. Easiest thing would be picking the engine up and tear it apart. Maybe install a rering kit but if the bearings etc are ok it isn't absolutely necessary. Anyway, tear it apart and mark all the parts where they came from. This way you can throughly clean the engine since it may or may not be very dirty inside. A rering kit is around 80$ at Summit and would be a wise investment. Home hone job with the new rings. A double roller timing set is a wise investment; about 32$ at summit. A high perf cam & lifters, Summit K1103 or K1105; 80$ The K1103 is pretty tame and I would propably pick the K1105 with 224/234, .465/.488" with 114 LSA. You propably can shim the stock valvesprings to make the cam work, but new HP springs would be a good idea. Next the heads; would be a good idea to find older heads with smaller chambers to raise the CR. Just today there was an announcment of '882 Corvette heads with 1.9"+/1.6" valves for 600 FIM complete Phone# 040-8349126. They are propably big chamber heads but milling them 1.5 mm would bring the chambers down to about 60-65cc. I would also homeport them slightly because it's 'free' power. There you should have a basic, strong long block for not too much money. A higher stall converter would be a good idea before you install the engine back, if money is tight you can add the 'external' hipo parts later. For the external parts; the stock intake & carb (if a four barrell) might do. If willing to upgrade, I would go with a used Torker2 or a performer RPM. On my opinion spending money for those basically replacement aluminum intakes like Performer or Action + is wasted money, the stocker will do the job. As far as the carb goes, the rochester isn't bad but I do not know much about them. Have melted one in washing solvent though....I would pick a Holley, a 1850 would do, but a 3310 would be better. And if in regular use, I would buy an electric choke kit for it. Although when I used to drive through the year I had no choke at all, just pressed the gas pedal a couple of times and started. Might have been 'slightly' on the rich side. Headers are definitely recommended; pick the ones that suit your budget. 2.25-2.5" duals with turbo mufflers would handle the exhaust and you definitely have to install a HP ignition curve to the distributor. Aim at 20 degree mechanical advance all in at about 2000-2500 rpm, this way you'll have about 15-20 degrees at idle and 35-40 degrees total. I believe these mods would give you a relatively trouble free engine producing about 300 honest hp and should be capable of about 14 second 1/4 times at about 160 km/h, at least not much worse.
Additional upgrades would be ARP rod bolts, a better cam, like Comp Cams Xtreme energy about the same caliber would give more power through the whole rpm range. Screw in studs to the cylinder heads wouldn't be a bad idea either, guide plates, stronger pushrods, oller rocker; an endless list.
[Edited by jyrki on 16.11.2001 at 07:32 GMT] |
| 16.11.2001 at 09:28 |
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Heigo
|
 Plaanid Pontiaciga
wow
The engine has been rebuilt by the former owner. It has new stock cam, oil pump and stuff like this. I haven't took it apart, so I'm not sure what there actually is. The headers are stock, but exhaust is self made 3". Heads are different (one is older model) so they should be replaced. There, is one thing that worries me: the engine leaks quite a lot. There's pretty much oil on the block. Maybe it's so because there is full synthetic oil in the engine (Addinol). The converter is new, but I don't know the stall. I will remove the engine in spring, so far I will be collecting money The good thing about the block is that it's a four-bolt
This how it looks now...hopefully it get's better
BTW: Jyrki: THANK YOU VERY MUCH, now I'll know what to do with my car. |
| 16.11.2001 at 11:52 |
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jyrki
|
Plaanid Pontiaciga
If the engine looks good when you take the eahds off, there is propably no need to pull the pistons crank; I would just open some bearing caps and if they look OK botl it together. Main pearings usually wear at the bottom half and the connecting rods from above.
The leak; propably just some gasket leak, some fitting not tight or from the ends of the intake manifold.I don't use the intake end gaskets anymore at all; just a bed of RTV and that's it. And I don't spare RTV in other places either.
Oiling in a SB chevy is pretty good stock and moderate engines do not need hi vol pumps or anything like that. Maybe would put some baffling to the pan if it doesn't have baffles already.
I wouldn't even necessarily be worried about the mismatched pair of heads if they look the same and the valve sizes match. I do not have much experience about stock chevy heads, but at least in Mopars mixing different castings isn't a problem, with minor porting they are all equal flow wise and the chamber sizes can be equalized too. They should have at least the 1.94/1.50 valves though.
The original cast iron exhaust manifolds should go; if your chassis only accepts a single pipe I would pull two 2 1/4" pipes and Y them to the 3". 3" single should be enough with a good muffler.
And swaps & 'keltainen pörssi' are great parts sources, just have to be there early to get the best deals. Almost always there are carbs & intakes available for good prices even though I have never been there early.
PS. Hope the wind calms down so that we can come there tomorrow to figure out what Estonian beer tastes like!
[Edited by jyrki on 16.11.2001 at 10:30 GMT] |
| 16.11.2001 at 12:23 |
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Jutulind
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Plaanid Pontiaciga
Thanks from me too Jyrki. I think i found those 2 missing cyl's we spoke about in summer And this one will also be with 5.7 SBC ... Ok ... More when deal is done. Though I don't think mine will ever be real stripcar ( 1974 Chevelle Malibu 4 dr. ) but it's at least something to start with. |
| 16.11.2001 at 14:32 |
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jyrki
|
Plaanid Pontiaciga
I see, it's this one but you have added two doors to make it look one year younger http://dragrace.org/ttracing/kalajoki.jpg |
| 16.11.2001 at 14:48 |
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